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Oz Clarke
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...by country: » Spain » Castilla Leon » Rueda » 2008
Naiades
Spain » Castilla Leon » Rueda [2008]
£20.95

Tim Atkin in The Observer "Spain's best white wine, this oak-influenced, old vine Verdejo is rich, toasty, yet remarkably minerally, like a Spanish take on a white Burgundy. The wine ought to cost twice as much as it does". An extraordinary wine produced from 8 small plots of mainly pre-phylloxera vines (over 100 years old). Ripe honeyed fruit with structure and richness. Gentle vanilla and cream overtones from subtle oak ageing. Since the first vintage in 2004, Bodegas Naia has established itself as one of Rueda's star producers. Grapes come from the estates 21 hectares in La Seca (the regions outstanding 'cru', where thick gravel over clay subsoil creates fine, incisive wines with distinct minerality) and grapes bought in from a further 20 hectares. Wine maker Eulogio Calleja crafts with great depth, which like the striking labels, stand out from the crowd. Whilst most modern Rueda tends to be in a simple, aromatic, technological style, here the maturity of the vines (30-100 years), strict grape selection and extended lees ageing give wines with delicacy, ripe yet restrained stone fruit characters, lovely texture and the ability to age.

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